Nikon serial numbers fm

May 18, 3. Thanks Michael. May 18, 4. Messages: 3, May 18, 5. F3 is pretty easy to determine. Four or five digit code inside the film back where the hinge is located. First digit is month. Second digit is last digit of the year.

Third digit is version of F3, fourth is revision. For regular F3 bodies, serial numbers up through xxxx are from between and The F4 has a formula that is listed on the old Nikon F4 FAQ site, which has been archived, since the site owner shut it down.

The formula isn't as accurate as the F3 method. F6 bodies, you'd probably have to ask Nikon about. FM2 bodies in the xxxx range all seem to be from Bodies above xxxx typically were the first FM2n bodies.

This weakness continued all the way through the FM3A. Another disadvantage of the EL's viewfinder display, which continues from the mechanical Nikkormats, is that there is no indication of the selected lens aperture. You need to look at the aperture ring on the lens to know our aperture setting.

The selected aperture does not show up in the display of these semi-pro Nikon bodies until the FM. The camera uses a single, relatively large 6 volt silver oxide battery e. The battery is installed at the bottom of the mirror box by using the mirror lock-up lever to raise the mirror and opening the battery compartment cover with your finger.

This works OK, although you need to be careful to avoid getting dust, etc. The EL apparently had at least two types of focusing screens.

My EL has a central microprism spot surrounded by a 12mm circle for the central weighted area of the exposure meter. The central microprism circle pops into focus and is quite easy to use.

However, the EL user manual describes the standard screen as a central split-image surrounded by a microprism collar. Since my EL is not a particularly early model The EL starts a serial number and mine is perhaps my sample was a special order.

In addition to the just-mentioned mirror lock-up function, the EL also has the usual aperture stop-down button, self-timer lever, etc.

The self-timer lever is pushed in towards the lens to provide exposure lock in aperture priority mode. The camera also has a fixed hot shoe on top of the prism. The EL is a really solid professional level camera, which provides state-of-the-art features for a first generation body with an electronic shutter.

For example, with the D, Nikon started using the 25xxxxx code for the first US bodies. Since the US D number comes after the initial number for the smaller Japanese market, it makes some sense to "steal" some of the Japan numbers for the larger US volume. A few products, most notably the low volume top end pro cameras, use only the Japan-based serial numbers.

Thus, you can have a D3 with a 20xxxxx serial number no matter where in the world you bought it curiously, the D5 reverted back to the regional numbering system. The same scheme often applies to lenses, though most recent US DSLR lenses are prefaced with the letters US and some recent lenses have longer serial numbers.

So where we stand is this: older gear clearly follows the original numbering practice in the table shown at the top of this page. The latest gear is much more complicated in how serial numbers are used. That said, a serial number with 0 as the second digit is almost always allocated according to the table, above. As I noted two decades ago, Nikon really just needs to abandon this serialization practice. Which Nikkors Have Fluorine Coating? What Matters Most? New or Old for the Exotic Telephotos?